Forgeron Cellars at Wildhorse

Sometimes, I swear, the stars just come into alignment between this column, the wine world, and the great world of Eastern Oregon. When those stars come into line, I actually get to write about something that will give you an opportunity to taste what I write about within just a few days of reading my ever so eloquent words.

Last week I ran into my old friend Patty Wolk, the Marketing Director for Forgeron Cellars. She mentioned to me that she would be pouring wines as the Winery of the Month at Wildhorse Resort’s Plateau Restaurant on February 3rd.

As many of you may already know, the wonderful culinary staff at Wildhorse each month pick a different winery to feature. They carefully prepare a special menu that showcases the wines from that particular winery. Then, they also prepare a special evening in the beginning of that month to hold a “party” in which they bring winery staff in to pour wines along with some specially prepared dishes for the evening. This is a great monthly event, and at $15 per person for wine and food, a deal that really can’t be beat.

Forgeron Cellars is a Walla Walla winery that has held multiple acclaims for the last several years. I have had the pleasure of enjoying their wines many times over those years, and one thing always holds true…their wines are beautifully elegant and easy to drink.

Celebrated winemaker, Marie Eve Gilla, is a rarity in this region. Her training isn’t local, or even from California. She is a graduate of Dijon, and studied in Burgundy for many years before coming to America to research winemaking. Her intention was not to stay, but remain in this region is just what has happened. Marie Eve and her husband Gilles, famed winemaker at Longshadows, fell in love with the people and the grape growing climate, and have made it their permanent home.

I recently tasted the wines to be featured on February 3rd at the Plateau, and thought I’d share my tasting notes with you.

Chardonnay is Marie Eve’s flagship wine. She is truly a virtuoso with this grape. The 2007 is what I believe to be one of her best ever. The grapes are sourced from throughout the best vineyards throughout Eastern Washington. The wine has aromas of apples and tree fresh peaches. The flavors match the aroma up front, becoming creamy, and then followed with a crisp finish.

Walldeaux Smithie is Forgeron’s idea of a fun “everyday” red blend. But, don’t let the cute label and name fool you. The juice is sourced from some of the most respected vineyards in the United States: Alder Ridge, Pepperbridge, Klipsun, and Boushey. Marie carefully blends different vintage sources and years to come up with the juicy flavors that she wants to showcase in this blend. Aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, and vanilla to open, with a nicely rounded finish of peppercorn and silky tannins make this one of my favorite everyday wines.

Zinfandel is another of Marie Eve’s strong suits. The 2005 is a dark plum color in the glass, with aromas of licorice, blackberries, and white pepper. The flavors are a mixture of dark cherries and blueberries. A long finish makes this a great wine to pair with bison, ribs, or wild game.

I hope you can make it out to the Plateau on the 3rd to taste these wines and the pairings by the Wildhorse chefs. Tell them I sent you!

Enjoy!

What Does Good Cabernet Taste Like?

The last few weeks I’ve had several conversations with people in the wine industry about a few winemakers in the region, one in particular, who claim to make superior wines in an “old world style”. I’ll come right out and say that their wines taste like good vinegar to me, however good vinegar makes great salad dressing.

The problem is that there is not a consumer standard for what is supposedly good or bad. It really depends on what people like me, and others who are more educated and highly paid have to write about the wines that they drink. A good score means that you have to like it because some “expert” did.

In preparing for this article I did a little research, beyond just drinking, and was reminded of a few points of reference. A few years ago there was a funny movie that was produced about winemaking, and it wasn’t that over-rated movie Sideways. The movie is called Bottle Shock. You can rent it from most local movie rental places or even download it on Netflix.

Bottle Shock, set in 1976 in California’s wine country is about the story of Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant who sets out to prove that French wines are superior. He hosts the Judgement of Paris, the world’s first truly intercontinental judging of Cabernet and Chardonnay. The Americans beat the French, like usual, and the French whine, also like usual.

The rest of the movie you’ll have to watch for yourself. However, a few standards of what a good Cabernet are, are established during the Judgement of Paris. Those facts are pretty much immutable.

A good flavor profile for Cabernet Sauvignon begins with the grapes. Grapes that are picked right, with the right amount of sugar should have a soft vegetable flavor that is going to taste a little like Green Bell Pepper. A really established Cabernet vineyard, will produce flavors of Eucalyptus or Mint, which tells you that you are drinking pretty much the best of the best.

Spice is added to Cabernet Sauvignon through barrel aging. Depending on the wood and treatment by the cooper, barrels create different spices that will layer over the grape flavors to develop the wine’s complexity. Flavors of Vanilla, Cassis or Black Currant, Tobacco and Leather come from this aging process.

Lastly, a good winemaker balances the wine with just the right amount of tannin. Silky, smooth tannins that don’t overpower the fruit create a long and beautiful finish to the wine.

If you were wondering who won the 1976 Judgement of Paris, it was Stags Leap Vineyards, with their 1971. Stags Leap, now owned by our friends at St. Michelle, remains to be one of the outstanding examples of what a good cabernet should be. Of course, that region is full of other names such as Heitz or Rombauer.

Locally the best cabernet comes from just a few vineyards. Probably the most famous are Champoux, Seven Hills, Pepperbridge, and recently Ceil du’ Cheval. If you look on your label and see these names, you will likely be drinking what is likely to be the way a good Cabernet Sauvignon should taste.

Enjoy!

New Wines Unveiled For Spring

One of my favorite times of the year is tax time. No, not because I’m some sort of sadist who likes to give Uncle Sam all my hard earned dough. The reason for my April 15 jubilation is because this is the time of the year that the region’s distributors and vintners get together to host trade tastings.

A trade tasting, is a private, industry only event, usually held at the distributorship. People who work in the wine trade, such as retail shop and restaurant owners, chefs, and the press converge on the tasting and get to sample new vintages available for the season.

On Monday I visited my friends at Graybeal Distributing for their second annual trade tasting. Bigger and better this year than last, the tasting hosted over 90 wines from 23 different wineries. The wines ranged from exquisite selections from Pepperbridge, Walla Walla Vintners, Seven Hills, and Saviah down to a complete line of fun and affordable wines from Barefoot.

My only disappointment that day was a severe shortage of local shop owners, who failed to make an appearance. My suggestion is that you go to your favorite local wine shop and tell them that you want these wines on their shelves. They owe it to you to carry them.

The first wines I want to rave on are from Seven Hills. Casey has once again hit it out of the park with his 2007 Riesling. The Riesling has 3% residual sugar this year, giving it a wonderful balance of fruit and acidity. One of my favorites of the day was McClellan’s 2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Filled with flavors of dried stone fruit and spice, this is a wonderfully balanced wine.

Gordy at Walla Walla Vintners shared a table of his newest reds. Probably my favorite wine of the day was his 2006 Sagemoor Cabernet Sauvignon. The juice comes from some of the oldest vines in Washington State, with flavors of dark black fruit, chocolate, and a slight sweetness in the tannins. Absolutely delicious! His 2006 Bello Rosso and Sangiovese were also fantastic.

Woodward Canyon shared their 2007 Nelm’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which as always, are amazing wines for their price. The 2006 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon was arguably another favorite of the day. It has notes of oak and cedar entwined in the flavors of black cherries.

The guys at Basel Cellars were on hand with five of their wines. I was impressed with the affordability of their wines, and suggest that you try both the 2007 “Forget Me Not” white blend, and the 2006 “Claret” red blend. Their 2005 Merriment was another bright spot in the day. This Bordeaux blend of Cab, Merlot, and, Cab Franc drinks nicely now, but will be incredible if you can cellar it for a couple of years.

Cougar Crest unveiled their 2007 Rose’ of Grenache. The intense flavors of black and white pepper, balanced by the fruit and acid will make this wine one of this summer’s regulars at my table and back yard.

Not to be missed, Rich Funk of Saviah poured several of his wines, including his 2006 Cab, which just scored a Wine Spectator 93 this week. You better buy this one quick!

Next week, I’m going to share with you my impressions of the other wines and wineries at the Graybeal trade tasting. Until then…Enjoy!