Not all Port Is Sweet

A few weeks ago I received a couple of bottles of wine from my friends at Calhoun and Company, a marketing and communications firm that represents some of the world’s finest vintners.

When I opened the box I read the labels, which said that the wines were from Portugal. I have to admit I kind of set the box aside, thinking that I wasn’t really in the mood to drink or write about “Port” wines. Little did I know the treasure that I laid down beside my desk.

Finally, this week, I pulled the bottles out of the box and took a good long look at them. The vintages were a 2008 Vale do Bomfim, and a 2008 Prazo de Roriz, also from Northern Portugal.

Still, not taking a close enough look, I pulled the cork and proceeded to taste the Bomfim just to get myself in the mood. Wow! I suddenly realized that I wasn’t dealing with a bottle of fortified wine from Portugal. I was dealing with a rich and complex wines made from Portuguese varietals.

Vineyards that supply the famous wines that we know and love here in the states as “Port” also produce table wines that are enjoyed by the locals and their favored guests. As for the Vale do Bomfim, the Symington Family’s Douro Valley Vineyards produce the grapes for Dow’s Port wines.

For many years they have held back a portion to blend for themselves and enjoy with their meals. Recently, the family made a decision to make this non-fortified blend available to the world market. I am happy to be one of the first in this region to taste this fantastic wine.

Vale do Bomfim is made from a blend of Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Touriga Franca. The grapes are all picked by hand, fermented in steel, and aged in American Oak for 9 months. The color is very dark purple, with a nose of herbs and spice. This wine fills the mouth with dark wild berries, herbs, and spice. A very exotic blend of wine, with soft tannins on the finish.

I found this bottle to be better on the second day, and even better on the third as it had the opportunity to open up and get some air. I suggest decanting this wine, and serving it with chorizo or your favorite barbeque. The recipe that I received with my kit was for blue cheese burgers, which sounds like an awesome pairing.

The Prazo de Roriz comes from one of the oldest estates in the Douro (Northern) region. Dating back to the early 1700s, this estate is known for its single vintage Ports.

Much like the Bomfim, the Roriz pours into the glass a very dark, rich purple. Its blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Francisca shows up in the glass with a nose of black cherry and dark plums. This wine shows a gentle supple quality that allows the fruit to show through beautifully. Soft tannins finish this wine with a velvety texture.

The pairing suggestion for this wine was a Grilled Chicken with hot sauce marinade. I think it would go nicely with this or with lamb chops, or even a nice T-bone steak.

These wines are soon to come to this region, priced at $12 for the Bomfim, and $17 for the Roriz, I would definitely suggest them on your table this summer.

Enjoy!

Delightful Or Discounted, Fortified Wines Take Wide Berth

Just when I think I know it all, I’m reminded of how much more I need to learn.

The other day I tasted a 2004 Red Mountain Fortified by Hedges Cellars. It was delightful to say the least. In a few moments I’ll share my tasting notes with you. But, First I need to tell you about my faux paux.

I told Patrick Jaynes, my contact at the winery, how much I enjoyed the “Port”. Immediately I knew from the silence that I had just royally screwed up. Patrick, being the ever patient and kind host, explained to me that at Hedges they don’t call it “Port” because they adhere to the “Wine Place and Origin” philosophy.

The “Wine Place & Origin” philosophy is something that was started in 2005 by the regions Champagne, Jerez, Napa Valley, Oregon, Washington State, Porto, and Walla Walla. Since then there have been several other regions that have also added their names to the agreement. Now there is even a website that you can go to learn more about this agreement, and even add your own name to the petition. The website is www.protectplace.com .

While I agree with this whole philosophy of correctly naming a product by its place of origin to ensure quality, I’m also now a little stymied. How do I tell you that I enjoyed a style of wine and have it not confused with many other styles of the same name.

“Fortified” is a term used for wine product where alcohol has been added in order to enhance flavor, kill off bad bugs, or give the wine a little kick. There are basically six types of fortified wines: Port, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, Vermouth, and Low-End Fortified wines.

Most of us are quite familiar with Low-End Fortified brands Thunderbird, Night Train, and Mogen David 20/20. Developed during the Great Depression, vintners were able to produce these very affordable, sweet wines that still remain highly popular for their low cost and high test.

On the other hand Port, Madeira, Sherry, and Marsala are centuries old winemaking methods that are steeped in culture and history. I’ve been privileged to taste Ports and Sherries that were in the $300 per bottle range. Vermouth also comes from a long history, and is a required ingredient in some of the most affluent mixed drinks.

I hope that this explains my situation.

So, when I explain to you that I enjoyed a bottle of this Hedges 2004 Red Mountain Fortified, please understand that I am not talking here of a three dollar bottle of Banana Red. I’m talking here of a bottle that will run you the cost of a really good steak dinner.

This wine is 56% Souzau, 25% Touriga, and 19% Tinta Cao. All three varietals are very rare for this region, however are common in Portugal, where Port is made. The wine is so dark and rich it is nearly a blue-black color. The nose is full of dark fruits, orange zest, tobacco, herbs, and violets. The flavors of the sweet brandy hit your tongue first, followed by orange, chocolate, and cherries. At 21.6% alcohol, and 5.6% residual sugar, this is pretty smooth stuff.

Anyone wishing to try this fantastic “fortified” wine should reach out to the winery by going to their website at www.hedgesfamilyestate.com .

Enjoy!