Garage Sized Wineries Helping or Hurting The Wine Industry?

The wine industry is a funny thing. Two parts agriculture and one part science, mixed with a dash of artistry just for finesse. Any winery you walk into will pretty much fall into this recipe, within normal limits.

This past weekend I took some good friends, my wife, and my son out on a wine tour to Red Mountain and Prosser. We visited everything from a sprawling 200,000 case winery down to a 500 case winery, and everything in between.

I can tell you that some of the wineries were wonderful, and some were lacking. But, I don’t talk about that. What I can tell you is that the topic did come up about “garage” wineries destroying the wine industry.

It does make sense. Hundreds of people in our region have gotten into the wine business seemingly overnight. Some have done it through their background in Chemistry, Biology, Geology, or Bacteriology. A few I know have come at the industry from a restaurant past. Some have come at it as a grape growing farmer.

As a new business owner, stepping out on the entrepreneurial cliff, we all have to start somewhere. It only makes sense that we need to start within our means, which sometimes includes the kitchen table or the garage. In other words, we can’t all just go out and buy multi-million dollar winemaking facilities.

The real problem is “Cult” wineries in my opinion. When I can buy a bottle of wine from a world class winemaker for $15 or turn around and buy a pretty substandard bottle for $45 just because it is from some “special” 500 case winery I think that’s a con job.

The truth is sub 500 case wineries have higher expenses per bottle. They are also under trained, and under experienced. They may have a mystique about them. Heck, some I know are absolutely fabulous! Dumas Station, Garrison Creek, Hightower, and Kontos Cellars are some that come to mind immediately. But, these guys all learned the craft over the years, or hired consultants to teach them.

Core to the issue is that it takes experience and talent to produce good wine. It takes practice, which requires volume and years. If you only make 10 barrels of wine each year, your level of practice isn’t nearly the same as a wine maker that makes thousands of barrels. 500 case wineries are rarely good from bottle to bottle because of this. They also don’t have the knowledge or experience.

In parting, I want to give a little story. A famous artist was asked to paint a swan by a rich lady. The artist charged 10 million dollars. After several years the lady returned and asked the artist for her swan. The artist took out a piece of paper and quickly drew the most gorgeous swan she’d ever seen in three minutes. The lady said, “I paid you millions for this and it took you 3 minutes?” The artist replied “It took me 30 years. You only saw the last 3 minutes.”

The moral of the story is that big or small, the artistry and skill that go into making wine isn’t quick and easy. Those who would like you to believe it is aren’t telling the truth. An expensive wine from just any small vintner isn’t to be trusted. However, some of the greatest wines of all time are made in small garages.

I Drink Your Wine Dot Com Goes Online Today!

I just got back to my studio from shooting a video with my friend Dan McCool at www.idrinkyourwine.com . His video blog launched today with a visit to Desert Wind Winery in Prosser.

I suggest that if you have an axe to grind, a stump to stand on, or a product or service that you want people to know about, and you are within at least a reasonable trip to Richland, Washington, you should talk to Dan about being on his site.

The video that I shot with Dan today will be aired on the 6th. We taste one of my favorites, an 05 Syrah from my friend Jay Dewitt at Dumas Station in Dayton, Washington. Jay's wine is available at fine wine establishments throughout Washington. You can visit the tasting room by appointment or purchase online at www.dumasstation.com

In the video I give a demonstration on the proper technique for opening a wine bottle. We also talk briefly about AVA Wine Room in Kennewick, Washington.

Winemaker Dinners A Great Way To Try Something New

Whenever I get the chance, I encourage people to attend winemaker’s dinners. They are a great way to meet new people, taste new wines and foods, and have a really good time at a relatively inexpensive price for the value you receive.

Last Saturday night, I had the unique opportunity to help pair wines at a winemaker dinner for Will Wolfeil, my friend, and the executive chef at the Hilltop Restaurant in Pullman.

I was able to bring two winemakers to the event. Jay Dewitt from Dumas Station, and Bob and Crista Whitelatch from Claar Cellars. Dumas Station is a small winery that offers Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Claar has several offerings, and has been in business since the 1980s.

The dinner started out with a wonderful salmon wrapped scallop on a mixed bed of greens, and finished with a citrus dressing. I paired this with the Claar Savignon Blanc. The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc has a wonderful nose of honeysuckle and pears. It finishes crisp and light.

Course two was a wonderful cheese and mushroom soup, made with dried chantrelle mushrooms, which gave a wonderful texture to the soup. I paired this with the 2007 Claar Riesling. It is lightly sweet and shows wonderful flavors of apricot, honey, and nectarines.

Next, Will brought out a wonderful dish called stuffed zucchini tubes with roasted tomatoes. This dish is both beautiful and delicious. He hollows out a zucchini and roasts it with fresh tomatoes and various fresh herbs. It has a wonderful Italian zestiness to it. For this dish I chose the Claar 2006 Sangiovese. It is bright with flavors of cherry and floral accents, and finishes with a nice spiciness. This vintage has won several awards throughout the United States.

After a great Palate cleanser of homemade lemon sorbet, we were on to a sesame crusted Ahi with wassabi horseradish. For this I paired the Claar 2007 Chardonnay. The Chardonnay is non-oaked, which pairs very well with all types of fish. It’s flavors are of ripe citrus fruit and crisp green apple. It finishes with a light minerality.

Next we were served a Smoked Chicken Roulade with roasted peppers and Proschuito on a saffron cream sauce. The smoked meat and spiciness paired nicely with the 2005 Dumas Station Merlot. This wine just received a 92 in wine spectator. It is rich with plum jam, cocoa, vanilla, and a wonderful balance of tannin, fruit, and acid. It finishes long and beautiful.

The sixth course was a Bison Strip with Blackberry Brandy Sauce. I paired this with the 2005 Dumas Station Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2005 vintage is pulled from Walla Walla’s Minnick vineyard. It has deep, rich flavors of blackberry and currant, and spice box.

Dessert was a wonderful cream cake with huckleberries. The natural pairing for this was Claar’s 2007 late harvest Riesling. The rich flavors of apricot, peaches, and pears in the wine mingled nicely with the buttery richness of the frosted cake.

If you ever have the chance to enjoy a meal at the Hilltop, I would highly recommend it. Will is a fantastic chef, and his staff was great to work with. Also, when traveling Hwy 12 between Dayton and Waitsburg, I suggest stopping to visit Dumas Station. Claar Cellars is located in Zillah just off of I-82. On your next trip to Seattle, stop in and tell them I sent you.