Garage Sized Wineries Helping or Hurting The Wine Industry?

The wine industry is a funny thing. Two parts agriculture and one part science, mixed with a dash of artistry just for finesse. Any winery you walk into will pretty much fall into this recipe, within normal limits.

This past weekend I took some good friends, my wife, and my son out on a wine tour to Red Mountain and Prosser. We visited everything from a sprawling 200,000 case winery down to a 500 case winery, and everything in between.

I can tell you that some of the wineries were wonderful, and some were lacking. But, I don’t talk about that. What I can tell you is that the topic did come up about “garage” wineries destroying the wine industry.

It does make sense. Hundreds of people in our region have gotten into the wine business seemingly overnight. Some have done it through their background in Chemistry, Biology, Geology, or Bacteriology. A few I know have come at the industry from a restaurant past. Some have come at it as a grape growing farmer.

As a new business owner, stepping out on the entrepreneurial cliff, we all have to start somewhere. It only makes sense that we need to start within our means, which sometimes includes the kitchen table or the garage. In other words, we can’t all just go out and buy multi-million dollar winemaking facilities.

The real problem is “Cult” wineries in my opinion. When I can buy a bottle of wine from a world class winemaker for $15 or turn around and buy a pretty substandard bottle for $45 just because it is from some “special” 500 case winery I think that’s a con job.

The truth is sub 500 case wineries have higher expenses per bottle. They are also under trained, and under experienced. They may have a mystique about them. Heck, some I know are absolutely fabulous! Dumas Station, Garrison Creek, Hightower, and Kontos Cellars are some that come to mind immediately. But, these guys all learned the craft over the years, or hired consultants to teach them.

Core to the issue is that it takes experience and talent to produce good wine. It takes practice, which requires volume and years. If you only make 10 barrels of wine each year, your level of practice isn’t nearly the same as a wine maker that makes thousands of barrels. 500 case wineries are rarely good from bottle to bottle because of this. They also don’t have the knowledge or experience.

In parting, I want to give a little story. A famous artist was asked to paint a swan by a rich lady. The artist charged 10 million dollars. After several years the lady returned and asked the artist for her swan. The artist took out a piece of paper and quickly drew the most gorgeous swan she’d ever seen in three minutes. The lady said, “I paid you millions for this and it took you 3 minutes?” The artist replied “It took me 30 years. You only saw the last 3 minutes.”

The moral of the story is that big or small, the artistry and skill that go into making wine isn’t quick and easy. Those who would like you to believe it is aren’t telling the truth. An expensive wine from just any small vintner isn’t to be trusted. However, some of the greatest wines of all time are made in small garages.

Top Wines of 2009

Before I get too far into this article I want to start with a disclaimer: These are my opinions and not some cold hard truths that come down from the wine gods. The wheels on the bus will not fall off if your favorite wine isn’t in here.

Last year this was the only article that I received hate mail and phone calls over. For some reason people felt that I had hurt their sensibilities because I didn’t mention their brand of White Zinfandel. Anyway, just relax and enjoy my picks for 2009.

Wine of the year - 2001 Garrison Creek Cabernet Sauvignon - No, the date is not a typo. Tucked away against the foothills of the Blue Mountains on the Washington side of the state border between Walla Walla and Milton Freewater is a beautifully constructed barn made out of imported slate, hand-hewn timbers, and gorgeous adornments. This is the home of Garrison Creek Winery. Available by appointment only, David March, the winemaker has bottled and is selling a limited supply of wine that will rock your socks. The 2001 vintage has had many years in the barrel and the bottle, making it one of the most fantastic Cabernets I’ve had in many years.

Best Chardonnay - Gordon Brothers 2006 Reserve Chardonnay – This is Chardonnay the way God intended it. Pears, apples, and melon on the nose and front of the palate, transitioning to the warm vanillas and baking spices associated with careful oaking on the finish. Absolutely delicious.

Best Red Blend - 2007 Fidelitas M100 Red Blend - Charlie Hoppes continues to prove why he is considered to be the region’s most sought after winemaker. This affordable blend simply “rocks”. Flavors of vanilla, cassis, chocolate, and dark fruit from start to finish.

Best Rose’ - 2008 Barnard Griffin Rose’ of Sangiovese - It isn’t rose season, but I have fond memories of this particular bottle from this year’s stock. You might be able to find it in a few specialty shops, but Rob is already working on his 2009 to be released sometime in the next few months.

Best White Blend – 2008 Saviah Cellars Star Meadows – Last year I named this winemaker the number one winemaker of the year. I still have to say that Rich Funk still tops the list. His 2008 Star Meadows is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semmilon, which brings out layers upon layers of citrus, apricot, and floral flavors.

Best Merlot – 2006 Pepper Bridge Merlot - This is one of the toughest years in recent memory for me in making this decision. A lot of absolutely fantastic Merlots have been coming from this region in the past few years. Jean Francois Pellet holds the top notch with this vintage. It has intense flavors of plum, currants, and cherries, with layers of chocolate and spice.

Winemaker to watch – Kontos Cellars 2006 Boushey Syrah - There aren’t a lot of winemakers in the region who were raised in the winemaking business, but Cameron Kontos is one of them. Following his father, Cliff Kontos of Walla Walla Cellars, Cameron has gone on to further refine his skills under Marie Eve Gilla of Forgeron over the past few years. 2009 was a fantastic year for Cameron. He and his brother Chris opened Kontos Cellars this year at the Walla Walla Incubator, and just a few months later he married the love of his life Becca. His Boushey Syrah earned a 91 from Robert Parker, and is absolutely fantastic! It opens with layers of peppercorn, bacon, and roses, soon followed by dark berries and truffles. The finish is long and satisfying.

I wish you all happiness and success in 2010!

More Wine Events Galore!

Holy Vine Batman! There are a lot of wine events going on in the next few weeks.

Next Thursday the 18th of June, David March from Garrison Creek Cellars will be at The AVA Wine Room in South Kennewick. David is both a fantastic entertainer and amazing winemaker. His wines are truly fantastic, bottle and barrel aged to perfection. For the mere cost of $20 you will be treated to ample food and wine to really have a great evening. Find out more by going to www.avawinerooms.com .

Next, and most important, next Saturday afternoon the 20th, at Petal Pusher in Hermiston, I will be teaching a wine 101 class. I'll do the talking, Dottie and staff will be pouring, and hopefully you'll be enjoying! We'll be sampling several wines from around the region, pairing them with foods, and learning more about the general enjoyment of wine. If you love wine and want to learn more about it, this is a great class. For specifics and registration contact Dottie at (541) 567-7414.

Later, Saturday evening the Barrel house in South Kennewick, on Union and 27th, will be hosting a wine tasting event, with live music by the Bluzettes. Their new chef is absolutely fantastic, and the wine will be great!

Sunday the events keep on coming. Chef's Brian and Ben from Wildhorse Resort will be hosting a cooking class at Barhyte Specialty Foods in Pendleton, Oregon. Barhyte manufactures amazing mustards and sauces for some of the most talented chefs, wineries, breweries, and food industry leaders in the world. Brian and Ben will be pulling out all the stops and putting on a cooking class, paired with exquisite wines served right in the beautiful and private Barhyte test kitchen. To reserve a very limited seat call Suzie at (541) 276-0259.

New Wines Available In Eastern Oregon

One of the benefits of writing this column is that I get to taste new wines as they are introduced into the region. This week I tasted some new wines and new vintages that I am excited about sharing with you.

First, I want to talk about Stella Fino Winery. My friend Marlene Steiner and her husband Matt have just opened their new winery with the releases of a 2006 Sangiovese, A Tuscan red blend called The Boot, and their 2007 Pinot Gris.

Matt and Marlene named the winery after Matt’s great-grandmother who’s name was Stella Fino, an Italian immigrant who raised her family in the Bronx, New York. Her Italian ways and culture have encouraged Matt’s culinary and wine influences throughout his life. When he and Marlene decided to move west from New York to engage in the wine business, they decided that they would focus on making great Italian style wines in her name.

As is usual with new vintners, the Steiners have produced a limited amount of wine for release to the open market. The wines are fun and engaging at a reasonable price for a Walla Walla producer.

The 2006 Boot is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Barbera. It starts out with a nose that is mossy, and reminds me of early mornings on the Tucanon River trout fishing. The flavors are full and bright with fresh red raspberries and white pepper. This will pair very well with a meatball or sausage and pepper sandwich.

The 2006 Sangiovese is made with 100% Sangiovese juice that was sourced from a mixture of Pepperbridge in Walla Walla, and Candy Mountain just outside of West Richland. The wine features flavors of dark cherry, menthol, and fresh tobacco leaf.

Last, the 2007 Pinot Gris was a bright and fresh wine, with overtones of pear and citrus salad. It would be perfect with seafood or soft cheeses.

Another winery that I tasted this week was Garrison Creek. I can truthfully say that I was blown away. The bottles read 2001 and 2002, which concerned me as they were being opened. Usually vintages of that age are already headed for oxidation. But not these beauties.

Garrison Creek is a winery that has been a long time coming in the Walla Walla region. Michael Murr, the owner, and David March, the winemaker have put many painstaking years into building their winery and their wines. Currently they make Cabernet Sauvignon, a Syrah, Red Blends, and are getting ready to release a Zinfandel.

I tasted the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose was full and rich with plums, dark fruit, and leather. Flavors of plum, vanilla, anise, and dark cherries filled my senses. If I hadn’t known better I could have sworn I was sitting in Napa Valley drinking a local Cabernet. If you like big, strong, but gentle Cabernets I highly suggest that you try these wines.

If you want to purchase any of these wines I suggest getting out to the usual haunts in Pendleton or Hermiston. If they don’t have them now, they should in a few days or weeks. Be sure to ask if you don’t find what you’re looking for.

Have a great weekend, and enjoy!