Restaurants Serving Grocery Store Wines A Poor Choice

The other night I met with some old friends in downtown Pendleton at a local establishment known for fine dining. I was looking forward to a few bites of grilled beef and a good glass of dark red wine to wash it down. Unfortunately I was both shocked and mortified that all that the place had on their glass pour list was the same stuff I could have bought at WalMart. The worst part was that the price for a glass was the same as I could have gotten an entire bottle for at the store!

I have a strict rule about writing this column. It comes from my old friend Thumper in Disney’s Bambi. “If you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all.” With that in mind, I’m not going to rail on about my snobbish wine tastes and the lack of good selection in Eastern Oregon.

Quite to the contrary, I am impressed with some of the skills used by a few restaurant owners in the region. I just wish that everyone could come up to speed. My “ask” today is that you, the consumer, be aware of what is available out there and demand it. Don’t let some bozo restaurant owner bully you into drinking Barefoot Merlot for $6 per glass.

The first thing that you need to know is that there are many, many wines out there that are reasonably priced specifically for the purposes of restaurant sales. These wines are marketed as such, and aren’t even allocated for sales in stores. Many don’t even have a scan bar on the back label so they can’t be sold at the register.

These restaurant wines are a little harder to acquire, and many are locally produced. Unlike wines that are allocated for the major chain stores, their marketing efforts and dollars don’t go into big ads in magazines. They are focused on producing really great wines at the best prices for “on-premise” accounts.

Examples of these types of wines abound. As I mentioned, many are locally produced, such as many of the wines produced by Precept Wine Brands out of Walla Walla. These are amazing wines, made by renowned area winemakers for the sole purpose of producing wines that are affordable and attractive to the restaurant market.

A few of my recent favorites are the Gordon Brothers Kamiak Labels, Ste Michelle’s Antinori Family labels, and Terra Blanca’s new arch label wines. All of these are very reasonably priced for restaurant sale, and absolutely fantastic. What’s more, I’m not going to refuse to buy a glass when I know I can’t get the bottle at the same price at a local store.

I know what you’re thinking now…”But, what if all I want is a glass of White Zinfandel?” My answer is that there are still options out there, literally sitting in a warehouse ready for delivery to your favorite restaurant. All you need to do is tell your waitperson that you don’t appreciate them selling you Sutter Home for the same price that you could buy it at Safeway. Ask for something different next time, and expect it.

Enjoy!

Gordon Brothers Celebrates History and Heritage In Their Wines

On a recent visit to Gordon Brothers Winery, on the banks of the Snake River on the Pasco-Kahlotus highway in Southeastern Washington, I had the wonderful opportunity to get to know the family, the winemaker, and the wines better than I ever imagined.

I’ve known the Gordon Brothers owners, Jeff and Vicki, and their children for many years. I sit next to them in church on Sunday mornings. See them at local events. I’ve enjoyed a bottle of Gordon Brothers wine many, many times over the years. However, I had never really gotten to know the Gordons or their wines until a few weeks ago when I was invited to come out to the vineyards for a visit.

As I pulled into the driveway of the simple, but well kept facility I realized that this is not a tasting room for the daily tourist trade, and that I was entering a private winery as a special guest. Always the snoop, I realized quickly from the no-spray signs and other organic markers that I was sitting in a truly organic vineyard, which is rare for this region.

Stepping out of my car I was met with a firm handshake by the winemaker, Tim Henley as he and his staff were washing barrels to be filled. Henley comes to the Gordon Brothers via way of a few famous Central Coast and Napa California wineries including being enologist or assistant at Byron, Zaca Mesa, Pine Ridge, Luna, and Clos Pegase.

As we tasted through barrels and bottles one thing really stood out to me in Henley’s short tenure at the winery… is his genius at pulling flavors from different oak, different blocks, and different processes to create depth and balance from the first sniff, until the last tannin leaves your palate.

Over the next few articles I want to share with you what I tasted that day in the bottles from the Gordon Brothers vineyards, and where I think the family and their skilled winemaker are taking their wines in the next few years.

First, I thought I would start with the winery’s newest baby. Their second label called Kamiak. Kamiak is a two wine labeling including a white blend and a red blend. Named after the famous Yakima chief Kamiak, the family wanted to honor the Yakimas who began the initial irrigation of the Columbia Valley. It was also to honor the Gordon’s grandfather who founded Kamiak ranch in 1907, and gave the family their Eastern Washington farming roots.

The 2008 Kamiak Windust White is a nicely balanced white blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc mixed with 10% Chardonnay. Henley’s work with both juices is very skillful, but blended this wine fills the nose with a mixture of apricots and baking spices. The flavor is nicely balanced between bright cherries, apples, and a mint, mineral, and delicious acidic finish. I would highly recommend this wine with seafood, white sauces, and salads.

The 2007 Kamiak Rock Lake Red is a blend of 4 different grapes. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon provides the base, with 26% Merlot, 25% Syrah, and 5% Malbec to finish the depth of the palate in this blend. The nose presents with pepper and dark fruits, opening to lush cherries, blackberries, and plums on the tongue. The finish is long, with soft tannins.

Next week I will share several other wines that build the Gordon Brothers portfolio. If you want to taste these wines they will be available in the region for the first time at a new release tasting at Great Pacific in Pendleton on December 18th starting at 5:00.

Enjoy!